The Zanzibar Experience Continues...

Part 2

Alhani

After Sauti Za Busara, things died down, and everyone left with memories to remember forever.  However, life went on.  For instance, I went with Alex and Michael to the house where our favorite little girl was just turning 2. Her name is Alhani, and she is, of course, your cute, chubby cheeked, button nosed, big brown eyed girl.  For short, she is my shoga.  Shoga, in Swahili, represents the relationship between girls who are good friends. 

Have you ever been this tired?

As we sat watching the many children crowded into one small living room watching TV, we witnessed a little boy who was so tired he was falling asleep sitting up. We watched as the little kids watched music videos that weren’t exactly family friendly, nor were they videos that you would want your kids to be watching. They were music videos about drugs, or sex, and usually had half-naked girls shaking their butts at the camera.  But the parents didn’t think anything of it. In fact, I saw the parents singing along with this Afro-beat type music (i.e. Diamond Platnumz is the big one). It made me think about how the older generation really accepts the modern music, which made me think about how I am used to hearing the older generation in America talk about how “the music isn’t how they made it back in the good ole days.” While this partially may be true coming from a big Oldies fan because of my Dad, rather than complaining or hating it, the people here just embrace the new music.

So the celebration happened something like this…Alhani came in dressed as if she was a bride; all decked out in a white dress with makeup and a white flower pin in her hair. There were many kids watching her, so, of course, she was very shy at first (I am not sure she loved her outfit because it gets better). Her parents, her aunt and uncles, and her Dadas were there. Everyone, even each little kid, came up and greeted me, Michael, and Alex by touching our hand (not exactly shaking it).  So for all you germaphobes, you might need hand sanitizer. The special guests generally get there later, but we were the exception.  They greeted us with sweet juice, and fed us soup with potato and pepper tasting things. 

Alhani disappeared for a little while, but soon she came out wearing an extravagant green and pink fairy outfit. It was obvious she loved this outfit more, because she began to clap her hands and dance to the music playing. They brought a green and pink cake where a Barbie was built into the cake with her arms to say CONGRATS!! They played a whole CD of different versions of the Happy Birthday Song, which was fairly interesting.  

The tradition they have here in Africa on someone’s birthday is that every guest must feed and be fed by the birthday person. I was the third person to be fed cake, which is a big honor to think about because the special guests go close to the beginning after parents and grandparents. The atmosphere was ‘bumpin’ as they would say in America, with everyone being crowded in this small living room, dancing, laughing, and singing. Alhani shared her bright smile with the whole world, and I hope her bright smile is shared with you in her pictures.

My Swahili professor and classmates, Amaya, Rachael & Ruthie.

The whole week after that was spent going to class, learning and practicing more Swahili. We explored a cave where 100 slaves were kept to work on crops, because in 1873 the Sultan was forced to sign the document to abolish slavery (if he didn’t sign, there would be no protection by England…) This cave also had fresh water that was used for drinking, bathing, and irrigating. Keep in mind, this cave is NOT handicap accessible. It isn't like the famous monuments in America where they build fancy ramps and lights to light the pathway. So we climbed back into the cavern (pango) with our headlights and the best sturdy shoes we had, along with these crickets with 2-inch long antennae, bats, millipedes bigger than my hands, spiders the size of my hand, and rocks that are very slippery and treacherous…and muddy. Its okay, only one of us fell, but the outcome was a camera being broken (Kristin). I did my very best to catch her.  It wasn’t very long, but just imagine slaves who are barefoot and weak climbing over sharp rocks with animals that are creepy crawlers.

Cave entrance

Cave exit

Then, we traveled to slave chambers where over 200 slaves were kept chained to walls standing up, with no toilets, with only bread and a glass of water a day. The slave traders would take the slaves and send them out on a secret port to India and the Middle East. It makes you wonder what kind of tension there is between Africans and India. It makes you wonder what sort of tension is between Africans who imprisoned other Africans and used them as slaves.

The next day… something amazing happened.  Rachael and I decided to go explore the beach of Ngazi Mia. Of course asking for directions to the beach ended up being told “It's over there. You know, over there.” Then, they show us where we need to go, and then ask for money. Our guide was very nice and did not ask for money, but he told us to walk and explore everywhere and we gave our thanks. This beach was secluded and SO peaceful. I can’t say it was the prettiest beach I have seen, but because it wasn't swarming with tourists, or people, other than African runners on the beach, it was wonderful. We watched the many fishing boats being cared for, explored the seashells, climbed onto this old cement hangout place to do homework and relax on the beach. 

We always have people who come up and talk to us, but they are usually teenagers who want to practice their English, or teach us Swahili. I read in Eat, Pray, Love that Muslims have an order to their world. Life makes sense when you have a plan. It is against the natural order to not have a plan. It is kind of like you are floating aimlessly into the dark abyss of the universe with no direction. It is the exact same here. Every guy asks me the same three questions in order. Do you have kids? (No) How old are you? (19) Are you married? (No).  Then follow all the average Whys? You quickly learn to say politely “I don’t have kids, YET,” avoid the age question, and lie and say, “Yes, I am married.” 

After that, we swam in not the cleanest ocean water (we witnessed a cow being washed in the ocean near us… No Judgment), and indulged in the little pleasure of letting ourselves be tourists for a few hours.  We even wore our bikinis, which is very scandalous. Teehee.  We got some courage to do 50 jump squats on the beach, which was a great workout while it lasted. It gets better…

The beach filled with more locals by the minute. Even some women were swimming by this point, which is practically unheard of. As we approached our cement hangout place, we saw a ginormous group of people circled and facing toward each other chanting in these rhythmic drill with a slight hint of African songs. It took a minute, but all of a sudden I realized all these people were counting because they were working out. Men, soccer players, boys, and even women in their long gowns and covered heads were here working out. I began to videotape and traveled to the top where I could get a better view. I was so entranced by the fact that the whole Zanzibar community was here doing these aerobics without stopping in the hot Zanzibar sun for a whole hour. 

Click on these links to see videos

                 Swahili Aerobics!                                                 And I got to play too!

The man leading the workout was this man who had a spring in his step and a large smile on his face that was warm and welcoming. He spotted me up in the crowd and yelled up to me to come join… I couldn’t pass that up even if I was in a beach dress and bathing suit. So I worked out with the Zanzibar community, doing aerobics for 45 minutes without stopping, with a huge smile on my face. I could not believe what I was a part of. I was surrounded by the wonderful sound of African voices chanting and yelling Swahili around me, and it gave me the best motivation to enjoy the workout while I could, even if it meant I was sweating an oceanful. I didn’t understand everything they said, but it didn’t matter. The sound of their harmonious voices lifted up everyone’s spirits. Everyone around me shared a smile, a pat on the back, and even a short clip of the workout for proof. A man even gave 100 shillings for all my hard work. All around that day was a day I will remember for the rest of my life because it was something that a person may not dream of doing, but it was an unknown dream come true.

            As of now, food is calling me home, so I will leave you with this: peace can be found in the most unlikely things, so let yourself be caught in the moment.

Love from Africa

Jax

Photo credits to Michael Celone and my traveling companions.  Thanks!

Sounds of Wisdom - Sauti za Busara

Lets just say that this weekend was spent in experiment and committed to observation. This post is dedicated simply to one amazing instance in my life.  But first off, let me just say thank you to the random vicarious readers of my blog, because without you I would not have a true reason to share. I did not expect my blogs to be seen in other foreign countries, but hey, if you like it, I am all for it. 

Part 1

Now, lets get on with it... three words:  Sauti za Busara...

This means voice of wisdom in Swahili, and let me tell you with a voice of wisdom. It is this ginormous international music festival that is so outrageously energetic and smoky you might actually feel like you stepped into an 80's rock concert. Now, concerts aren't for everyone.  I get that, but I have to say that one day of listening to various forms of music, anywhere from African tribal or techno, to Latin American, to rock, to Indian sounds, you get a better appreciation of music and dancing...oh boy did I dance! 

But here let me start at the beginning...

So, before this festival I had never seen so many different types of people in my life. There were people from all over the world on this small island in Tanzania. It's a time when every white person in African can strut their "mzungu swag" because now, you aren't so few anymore. Not only that, you have your ex hippies with their peace necklaces and beads in their hair and their parachute pants, to your reggae Bob Marley look-alikes, to your conservative muslim women, to your European hipster, to your high school jock, to your exotic, sexy, mysterious beauties, to your average American (who can't be so average if they are in Zanzibar), to your Asian tourists, to your curiously small, strong looking Indians, to your odd, half-naked beer-bellied redneck... I dont think redneck may be the proper term... I am telling you this festival attracts people of all shapes, sizes, looks, piercings, colors, and more. *note that it's a great place for people watching, but the challenge is to refrain from judging. You're at an INTERNATIONAL festival* 

One thing that I have noticed about going to something like this--girls, do NOT do this (but lets be real with each other, we do this a lot)-- is that you have a lot of different types of beauty to compare yourself to in the world. You have SO much to compare yourself to that it is almost so unrealistic to compare yourself because it isn't even the same kind of beauty. The moment you get an opportunity to go to a foreign country (I am going to have to be biased and say Africa, because I have seen the most diversity here) and go to a music festival, you will begin to see a flock of different types of beauty in the world that you have never seen before. 

Its also a wonderful time to meet people...dear lord, I have met literally the coolest people in Africa, and that is saying a lot about the kind of people Africa attracts. Recently, I have met Joao, a young Brazilian man who I nor anybody else other than those who speak Portuguese will ever be able to pronounce his name correctly, so we call him Alex or preferably J-money, and who is on a month-and-a-half long vacation to see Tanzania. We met some random New Yorker named David who works for World Bank...pretty cool. I have met more people from the Boren group. I have met an Indian Tanzanian film maker name Deepesh, who was making a documentary about the festival and has also been on the staff for Bollywood, which is a huge thing here in Africa (you'd better believe I am going to make my appearance in that documentary). 

I have met this really lax Catholic Zanzibarian named Elvis who has the funniest sense of humor of all Africans put together. He also works as a guide for the slave market memorial, so if you come here within the next year, ask for Elvis! Best of all, I have met Old John (Young John is part of a study abroad group who is also his own awesome character and greatly resembles Jasper from Twilight... haha yes, John if you read this one day this is my first impression of you). 

Guanajuato

Now, let me tell you about old John because he deserves a whole paragraph of his own. Old John is a retired man in his 70s, who's lived his whole life in Austin, Texas,  and has literally been all over the world. I am not sure what he did, but he has been to 40 US states, every state in central america, every country in eastern asia, a few countries in europe, and now, countries in Africa. Today, he is still going strong, but during the festival, I got to listen to old stories about John's travels, and I was in complete awe. Over the years, John has learned to get lost... and that is why he has found himself traveling to so many places and loving the roads less traveled... heck a few days ago he white water rafted the Nile. Today, he has officially convinced me to travel to his lovely secret retirement city in Mexico, which he fell in love with eight years ago. After traveling for almost 50 years, he said, "I went there, and I just knew that it was the paradise I had been looking for all my life."  He joined so many other characters there, all of whom flocked to this secret city that has already captured my heart.  I am intent on going there one day to see for myself this beauty that Old John raved enthusiastically about for hours. I am sure by now you all are wondering where...the name is Guanajuato, the university town in the exact center of Mexico, tucked into a canyon with underground traffic and beautiful buildings that John described as "it feels like you're in Italy."

Guanajuato

So many people in so little time, but let me tell you every single one of them made an imprint on my life as I spent time around them.  Of course, Michael, Alex, Hannah, Grant, Ruthie, Andrea, and Kristin were there, and they also helped me have the time of my life. We danced from 5:00 p.m., untill one in the morning without a care in the world (I suppose I have been in a dancing mood lately), and the best part is the music was still going even after we left, both in the concert and in our hearts (as cliche as that sounds).

Sauti za Busara takes place outside in this old historical fort that is totally awesome.  Google image "old fort", "zanzibar" and picture hundreds of people standing in the area, with vendors of all kinds, and a gigantic stage with African, reggae sounding music blaring from 30 speakers. The only downside is you have Africans and Europeans who are super into smoking, so you get that extra addition of secondhand smoking, while you attend. We heard so many different types of music, seeing so many different types of instruments I have never even seen, or heard of before.  My favorite act was 
the ethnically diverse group called the Nile Project. Look them up on itunes because it will give you a sense of how diverse their music is. Yes, I am also aware that you can't understand the lyrics, but if you are about culture awareness, or enjoy foreign music, look them up. The reason it's diverse is that each person comes from different African cultural backgrounds. One comes from Sudan, another from Egypt, another from Burundi, another from Ethiopia, another from Uganda.  Yes, all these countries are from Africa, but people don't realize even how different culture is from African state to African state, because even dancing is different. 

Gosh...I wish there was a way to better explain this festival, but the trick is to just be there. However, even by the end of the night, good things come to a close (except for the Scottish guitar players who were still drinking margaritas and playing guitar at 8 in the morning the next day). The question remains, would I go back to this awesome experience?  Yes, I totally would, but I will say that things like that night only happen once. Some people may disagree, but 

Ampitheatre

a night just like that one can never be relived. I have learned this as I have gotten older. No, it doesn't mean the next experience won't be a good one, it just means that it won't be the experience you remember because for me, it is about the people I am with and the relationships I have made that made it so worthwhile. So, I know as your average human being sometimes we get so caught up in the past. We want so badly to relive all the wonderful memories over and over again if we could. We want to relive the most fun birthday party we've ever had, relive the most fun high school dance we've ever been to, relive the best concert, even relive our first kisses, favorite loves, or most memorable acts, and I hate to burst a bubble, but we can never go back. We can never relive those moments again no matter how hard we try, but that is what is so wonderful about them. I would love to come back and relive the first time I went to Sauti za Busara, because of the people I have met, the time in my life I am in, and the wonderful ability to just dance and appreciate the world we are in. Then again, a moment like that is just simply meant to keep us chasing after more memorable occurrences very similar to them.

So, now, even when it's so memorable, the key is not forgetting even the slightest detail about what happened, because from this I have made more friends that I would be honored to be able to see again one day...

To be continued...

6 Days of Enlightenment and Adventure.

Well let me tell ya...bear with me, its been awhile. 

So a few fun and exciting things done over the weekend...some friends and I have made up this new term called Forodhani Fridays, where we go to the Forodhani Gardens for dinner. Let me tell ya, there is so much food and all of it is good. I had a chicken "Zanzibar pizza," which is a concoction of vegetables, chicken meat, mayo, and other things wrapped in this  chapati/tortilla-like thing. It was so good! 

There we also had the opportunity to speak to the mpishi (the chef) named Muhammad (pretty original muslim name, but his American name is Mr. Chocolate) in Swahili about who we were and what we were doing in Zanzibar. We got to joke around with him and learn about him. I told him I had a Zanzibar name that I actually received from these women Muslim shopkeepers who like me to come in every once in awhile to talk and say hello in Swahili. They gave me my African name "Jamila," which I learned later from my host mom, comes from the root word jamili. Jamili in English is literally translated to attractive, nice, and kind... I felt like I had just typed my name into urban dictionary, so that was a surprise.  My friends also received their Zanzibar names like Sharifa, Shamila, etc. 

I also tried octopus (not super awesome but it is kind of like calamari...calamari is better), a banana chocolate syrup pizza, and shawarma. Now let me tell you about my relationship with shawarma. I have no idea what it is, or what they put in it. It is meat with these amazing sauces and similar to a burrito that is the best burrito you have ever had. (This is a terrible example) At first, it's like walking into a dark room you have never been in before. Everything is uncertain, but then once you take a bite, it's like the light turns on and everything makes sense. It is soooooo good. 

In other news, some friends and I went to a rooftop bar place, and I got Classic Coke in a bottle. However, it was a very nice time hanging out, conversing with friends and looking out over the bright blue ocean. Of course, a night like that in America looks like people walking in short, tight, glamorous dresses with 6-inch heels and a lot of rich alcohol racing down their throats, maybe throwing in that extra act of recklessness such as drinking too much, swinging on chandeliers, dancing on tables, getting into a fight, or kissing someone you just met. In Zanzibar, a night like that consists of being covered head toe in loose fitted clothing, with the skin of your feet hands and face showing, minus any acts of recklessness...no, no swimming naked with dolphins, and absolutely NO vandalizing.... Yes, to some a Zanzibar night wouldn't be as eventful, but it was also a lot of people's kind of night to relax and talk and drink Coke on the rocks...or for those Big Bang Theory fans...a grasshopper. On a side note, I actually got to watch a movie called Good Will Hunting. Really good by the way!! 

Anglican Church - 

Then, on Sunday we went to an Anglican church. Now, keep in mind that I have never attended an Anglican church, I have just learned about it. They had an English service first, and there I sat next to this engineer from Scotland who was working with the church to rebuild it. Of course, I had to tell him I am half Irish even though the two are not the same, and to this day that slight subtle tension lies between the east and the west of Ireland and Scotland. 

A little history about the church is that it was built by Edward Steele in 1993. It has a huge steeple, but a very small sanctuary where the pews are made of wood and look as if more than 5 people sat on them the wood would snap in half. The church, in Swahili, is called "kanisa na mnara kwa nara" which literally tanslates to "the church with one tower." For those history buffs, at the top of this church there is a wooden cross made from the tree of where the heart of David Livingston, a dedicated scientist/missionary, was buried. Yes, his heart is buried in Zambia, Africa, while his body lies at rest in England. He was one of few explorers that traveled into the treacherous depths of the interior of Africa in the 1800's and died of disease in search of the source of the Nile. 

Memorial for the slaves

The service was very traditional, but very orderly. I think it gave a lot of people peace to hear a sermon that was in English... me, well I was busy stressing over the communion, because, of course, it had more nasty wine...I am kidding, but the wine is not very good. The church is built on top of the place where the slaves from the interior and the Congo were traded off to go to India, so next to the church you have a museum for the slave market, and where the slaves were kept and sold. Quite depressing really... 

I also met and talked with a couple from Switzerland who have been there since the 1980's. The woman taught at this blind school in Arusha for a long time, and then moved to Zanzibar, opened up a jewelry shop called "Shangalia".... don't know if there's any connection to "shanga shangaa"... but she also hires blind people to help her with her store. Her husband was shy, but very kind. 

Millipedes

That night, I got to hang out and make my new Scottish/British friend, Hannah. I knew her through Alex, but together the three of us went to the market, and I just got to listen to them speak Swahili. I joined in a few times, but dear lord, they are so good at it. They have been here for almost 6 months, but it is quite fascinating their skill in Swahili. So the story is Hannah wanted to cook dinner, but not just any dinner. She wanted to cook samaki papa (I love this word), but it means shark. Unfortunately, there was no shark, but we got changu instead which are small white meat fish. We took the ingredients back to her house... I was not involved in anyway with cooking because they had a lot of hands in the pot and so few knives, but it was an adventure. It turned out to be a very good dinner. 

Michael joined us later, and I got to talk with Hannah's apartment-mate who is a French retired flight attendant who is about 40 years old. I got to hear all about his life as a flight attendant. I told him how I wanted to backpack Europe, and he told me how expensive it was, but to try to stay with people I knew. He seemed like he didn't love his Paris home because he was in Zanzibar with no plan. Haha, he literally will go to Dar es Salaam, get a motorcycle and ride it to Mozambique to live there for a little while, and then from there it is a whole new adventure, just traveling from place to place living off of the land, with a limited budget. We also learned Hannah plays ukelele and plays in a small band back home that hasn't gone big yet, but it will. I know it. :)

Paje where they farm seaweed

At last, we also got to listen to a lecture about the marine biology here in Tanzania. I was happy to finally get to hear about science. Never thought I would say that, but science is more a part of me than I know. We got to view the Dar es Salaam University campus, and they have a graduate program for biologists if anyone is interested. We got to view their tiny, but cute, aquarium where we saw our first African sea turtle and barracuda. 

Amongst hanging with friends and learning about the people in my group, I have been attending the local yoga and Zumba (yes Zumba in Zanzibar) classes and the music academy. It is like the African version of ladies community fitness. You have your average Muslim ladies dress down in their black gowns and head wraps, and then you have local tourists or students like me. It's an interesting yet enlightening experience. Our Zumba instructor is this young American white woman whose husband plays at the music academy with pizzaz. She has so much energy, but what dance instructor doesn't, right? Then our yoga instructor is this small, local woman who has a more quiet passion for yoga that shows in the hard work and flexibility she has put into being good at it. Yet, for her it isn't just for health. It is for harmony, and she does her best to share that with her students. Keep it on the down low, but none of these people are certified, but it is only donation to do these classes. They are great!

It also takes its toll on the soul. Zumba is meant to be fun, regardless if you can dance or not. Let yourself have fun. I know it doesn't make sense to make our bodies sweat even more than we need to, but it's diving into a different party for sure. I had a Muslim lady dancing next to me, but she danced without a care in the world. In yoga, I meet so many laid back people. They are quiet, but you can tell they carry a peace with them wherever they go because they always have that hint of a smile.

Me and my friend, Ruthie.

Now, Chelsea and I always had a hard time doing yoga together, but I know when you are in a pit in your life, you need routine, you want strength, you need to let go, or you are desperate for peace, things become serious, uplifting, and spiritual real fast. No, I haven't had any encounters with God. My soul hasn't traveled to a new world and back or anything like that, but in a different country, where you are doing yoga looking out over the calm sea water, you learn to forget about everything else for a short while. Heck, I even forgot Valentine's Day is coming up (all I can say about that is...well...crap). Slowly, with routine, you can begin to learn that you can carry that peace wherever you go in the world. It just takes a little practice. 

Quran

As for my studies, well, I would much rather say I study the people more than I study everything else. The other day I asked my mama about prayer (because I may or may not have accidentally peeked on her praying). For those of you who don't know, Muslims pray five times a day, always facing east toward Mecca. So I asked my mama about her prayers. This is what she told me in a lot of Swahili. Prayer is not spiritual, uplifting, or emotional. It is routine. It is something that brings order to Muslim life and culture. Sure it is very conservative, but it makes the world make sense. There is something about uncertainty that certainly scares the human race. Even the prayer is structured. They recite the Quran, which I saw the whole thing in microscopic letters in the museum of the old Omanis sultans palace, and it is HECKA long. Then, they pray to God about their wishes, and then they go into peace and bow before God lifting them up to him knowing God has heard them. 

To an outsider, Muslim culture has a hard time making sense. However, there are things it can teach us. Religion sometimes isn't a thing for everyone, but happiness is. That is why people do the things they do, because certainty is the first real step to contentment. There are many things to try, learn, and accept the facts about the culture. Disagree or agree, we all have happiness in common. However, for everyone, the journey is different. 

On a more simple note, my mama, I learned, is 29, but she is so funny! She literally makes me laugh all the time because she is the first sarcastic Muslim I have found. The sense of humor in Zanzibar is very different. You have to make a lot of fiancee jokes. Which I have received quite a lot of proposals lately. I had this long spiel from this guy about why I should be his fiancee, but our Swahili teacher says that is just how they do things in Africa. 

I would recommend to people to keep an open mind. Some doors in life don't seem likely, but maybe it is the door a Supreme Being is pointing you toward. Every door has something little to offer, but it also offers understanding to the uncertain things. It offers peace. If you are at war with whatever in life, work, stress, marriage, depression, or small things like cooking, or working out, do whatever it takes to find peace in your life.

Sending love from the Muslim Capital of Africa (kidding), 

Jax

Melding and Melting in Zanibar

Well, I wish I could say my first few days in Zanzibar were filled with more exciting adventures, except I haven't traveled very far on my own because of the fear that I just might get lost, or the homework I must finish. Both two very stupid excuses, because those are parts of the adventure. However, what I will do is fill you in on some details.

Not everyone's thoughts and experiences of Zanzibar are ever the same. Temperatures top 99, and it is humid. Your hair gets frizzy. You are sweating buckets, and from the perspective of an outsider in Muslim culture, you have to FORCE yourself to dive into their belief system and cover your shoulders, your knees, your head, your belly, everything. Your clothes stick to you because you are so sweaty. This isn't Hawaii people!  You can't go walking around outside in your bikini, or short shorts and tank tops. In order to truly understand and appreciate the people, you must be willing to do what they do.

I have gained more respect from the people here by covering myself as they would. For example, vendors don't hassle me, women greet me, and children don't call me mzungu. Instead, they call me sister. More importantly, you have to learn to be aware and adapt to your surroundings. I cant walk around in my jogging shorts all the time because I have a teenage boy coming in and out of my flat. If I am not aware, I might put him in an embarrassing situation. Recently, I have also learned that women here don't get to attend mosques. They have to pray at home. My family is a laid back family and may not let me help as often as I would like, but I quickly learn the chores a woman does, not only in the Arusha culture, but also in the Zanzibar culture. 

This might sound redundant, but I am gaining an understanding of day-to-day life here in Zanzibar. For those who aren't men, or aren't women in the tourist business, people literally do a chore and then rest, do a chore and then rest. It's a constant cycle. Many women don't even like to leave their homes. It's not like America where you go out and have family time at a restaurant, or go to the movies, or go to a theme park. It's too dang hot, and why would you do that when you have food at home? That's their mentality. However, in the evenings it cools down, and the night hypes with people, with food galore, and with action.

Another thing I like about Zanzibar is that my Swahili is challenged in such a good way. People are so shy to communicate a language they don't know, and it's ok to feel shy, but as my Mama in Arusha says "you have to be Kichaa, to be a good speaker." You have to be willing to be a little crazy. If you only have a few words you know, communicate them in the best way you know how. In Zanzibar, people aren't as impressed with the fact that I can speak Swahili compared to Arusha, but rather, people are ready to correct me and give me feedback. The key is to never get discouraged. You are communicating. Communication is 80% body language and 20% words, and sooner or later you are going to get your point across. 

Street view from my apartment.

The things I have done, however, is spent money on ice cream... I am waiting for the right moment to get people gifts (they have a python skin for sale if anyone wants it), and the ice cream is so good. You can't pass up ice cream no matter what country you're in...maybe Antarctica, but you can easily get away with making snow cones. I will let you in on a secret. The other day I spent 30 cents on a bowl the size of a "like me" size that you would get at Coldstone. It might be a little difficult to adjust to American prices when I get home. 

I have also enjoyed resting at the beach. Not a bad place to do homework might I add, and if any of my Skype friends are interested, maybe you can make a quick visit to the beach from your homes in the cold fronts of winter. 

State University of Zanzibar (SUZA)

So because my host family is orientated with Alex's (my friend from SUZA), therefore being orientated with Alex, I get to hang out and explore with him andhis friend, Michael. To give you background about these two, Alex is on a Swahili Flagship study abroad program, while Michael is on a Boren Fellowship (I'd like to think its Bourne like Bourne supremacy...more exciting) through his graduate degree at his college in Louisiana. People who are interested in traveling, maybe go check that out soon. Alex is 21, is a premed major, and ma ybe from Indiana (don't quote me because I haven't asked yet), and Michael is 22, a public health undergraduate, continuing into his masters, and is from Rhode Island. Both of them have shown me around to gelatto, to the beach, to the market, to Zanzibar cuisine, to meet new people, and to even see my other fellow students' homes. It's been such a huge blessing to meet these fellows because they were very welcoming and very understanding with me. They are currently teaching me the ropes and the geography of the island.  I almost don't want to rely on them too much, because what kind of independent woman gets help? 

Lastly, I want to say I don't want to give off the impression that Zanzibar is unbearably hot, too conservative, and is dangerous because maybe to some, if you ever come here, it might feel that way. However, it isn't impossible. What I am saying is to try EVERYTHING. That is easier said than done because, no... I don't exactly want to go skydiving, and my life continues on without skydiving. However, there is magic in our surroundings. For instance, women may not like covering themselves to get a taste of Muslim culture, but whats the harm? It will teach you more than you realize. Another example is that sometimes in Tanzania...every food is finger food. It might not be the best manners in America, but you do it to understand a group of people and a culture different than your own. It is easy to be a tourist, but it's meaningful to embrace a world different than what you're used to.

Next time you go on international vacation, maybe one day embrace, or familiarize yourself with the way they live by diving in. You may say that life could go on without you doing that, but where's the adventure in that? 

Sending my love from Africa

Jax

Zanzibar! Wow!

I made it to Zanzibar!  And let me tell ya, the streets smell bad.  There is not really a sewage system here, and the roads are small, but the buildings are white and beautiful.  As I am writing this I am planning to walk to the beach to watch the sunset. The streets are like walking through a maze, but my sense of direction is a work in progress.  Many have told us that there is so much to see and do in Zanzibar, like a sunset cruise, explore shops and restaurants, go to the beach, see landmarks, and go crazy! Its probably the safest out of all the places we will go in Tanzania.

So as soon as we got to Zanzibar, I got to sit next to one of our teachers at the university and talk with him in Swahili.  He was there to correct me when I needed it, and congratulated me when I said things right. The university is small, but it is a tall white building among other buildings with an enormous courtyard. Then we got to go home with our families, and believe me, I was just as excited this time as the last time.

I am now staying with a young woman named Salma.  She doesn't have any kids yet, but two little girls, Chemsa (9) and Rabira (6), live with us. Both of them are such funny chatterboxes.  I didn't get to meet her husband, because they both originally live in Dar es Salaam for business, but I got to talk to him on the phone. Its really nice and challenging, because Salma hardly speaks any English, so we speak in a lot of Swahili, which teaches me a lot.  I'm trying to remember a lot of words so I can look them up later.  However, Salma is such a laid back woman, and she is very beautiful too! She is very patient with my Swahili, and she is ready to teach me more. 

We live in a flat up two skinny, steep flights of stairs, which I tried to carry my 45 pound bag. Lets just say it was a struggle. The flat is small and intimate. The toilet and shower and sink work, so that's wonderful. I have a room to myself, with a fan and a nice bed.  We have dadas who live down the road from us, and they have four children, including Chemsa and Rabira.  They have a teenage boy named Issa, and a young girl named Jokha. They also have a student named Alex who is studying at SUZA. He's a pre-med major, so we both get to question how this affects our school schedules.

The next day we spent the whole day with the family. We walked to the market where the atmosphere is so much different than in Arusha. Their Swahili isn't as fast and as full of slang. People aren't as aggressive. Even the call for fitness is so much different here. Here they seem more insistent on speaking just Swahili. They have a Zumba class that I might do! Fun stuff! 

We then walked to get henna...and oh lanta! My body is like a canvas! They painted my arms with delicate lines and art and everyone stares at my henna and says wow! Henna is what they use before weddings, so everyone says you're ready to get married now! I will say I am so excited to get to see a wedding here!

Alex showed me around parts of Zanzibar, (obviously where the free wifi is) and showed me some of the best ice cream... caramelos...you can't pass that up.  We went with friends to the beach to watch the sunset, and the rest were  swimming. Oh man did the girls get stared at! The beach was made up of local boys and teenage boys that look as if they'd never seen knees before... a lot of them were doing really cool flips and break dancing moves. You better believe I got a video! If you see it, dont mind the Asian guy in the speedo that walks into my shot. We also walked by all this street food that looked sooooo good. They had fresh fruit, kabobs, and schwerma, which is like fattening beef, but I heard its so good. 

Oh yeah, took my first shower since I've been in Africa, and I have never been so thankful for cool water.  I melt everyday, but I'm not complaining about the weather. Although it makes me tired and not want to eat as much. 

My Swahili is really pushed to know more vocab here.  Bad news bears is my tonsils feel swollen. African immunity here we come. There is so much to see, so many relationships to make, and so much to learn. Continue to count your blessings! 

Love from Africa

Jax

Arusha, we shall return. Off to Zanibar!

Well the day has come for us to travel to Zanzibar for our next month of study. But first I want to share the many things we have done over the last few days.

First, we went on a long hike to these waterfalls, which was me in my natural element. I love to hike.  We traveled into the countryside of Arusha where many crops lie on mountain sides, many men and women stop to say hello to one another, the grass is green, and the air is warm. People greeted us as we walked the six miles to get to our destination. Along the way we picked wild African raspberries, talked with some soldiers, saw lots of monkeys, tried catching frogs, and walked in a cool green canyon where we found a GINORMOUS, peaceful waterfall. I did my best to skip rocks in that little pool, but I found out quickly that I haven't thrown anything in awhile. We taught our host cousin the term "your brother from another mother" and he replied "oh yeah! My uncle from another cousin!.. "  Not quite, Walter. 

We also went to the Arusha Declaration Museum, where we got to view the history of Tanzania from Paleolithic times till now. Funny story is that we got to go out and fend for our lunches by ourselves.  After searching aimlessly, we found this pizza pointe place that was interestingly good. The pizza sauce here is sweet and not a lot of people eat cheese.  After lunch we tried to find our way to the museum, and we had to ask directions from people, and nobody knew where it was, and finally, we figured it out, and phew! That was a run on sentence, but I made our group of four speedwalk, and we were only 5 minutes late!!! :) The museum was great, except the exhibits were more like pictures printed off the internet in exhibit cases where glass was broken, and it looked more like a run down warehouse. But it was such a wonderful experience!

Another cool experience was that we got to be hostesses for our house because an experienced Lutheran pastor from Texas came to visit our home. He told us stories about his outreach program for people who haven't heard the gospel yet. He had been out in the bush for 30 days, but he said the experience is amazing. You'll be sitting in church and a cow or donkey will come in and just lay down right next to you. He was a very confident, caring, and rambunctious fellow. He just went with the flow of the things. 

I went to visit my internship at the Arusha Society for the Protection of Animals, and it sounds like a very eventful, challenging, but maturing experience, because we will be doing PR things as well as working with some clinics every week. Wherever they need us, we volunteers go. Except, because we are white, the locals here think we are doctors. "Dr. Brennan" has a ring to it... I guess.

Every day we walk, talk to new people, and explore new things that we didn't notice before. For instance, we printed something for the first time the other day, and ladies yelled at me from across the road in Swahili "how are you?" And when I responded in Swahili they giggled like little school girls and yelled back "I love you!" in English.  We also had African pancakes...which are basically eggs and milk, but still good.

Mama Peace gave me a dress from her shop, and the
barber inside her shop asked to cornrow my hair.  It's fun!

As the days have been winding down, we have been making the most of staying with our families, because we wont see Glory and Peace again unless we come back to Arusha again in later years. They are off to boarding school.  We have cooked french toast with them, which was nothing like my grandma's, but it was sufficient. We also made farm animal origami, which was actually kind of difficult, but it was great bonding. We lounged around, and I taught our family an American worship song, I knew they would like and that all of you might know, "Shout to the Lord." Mama Peace kept telling me "play it again, play it again." Then, an even greater experience, is that me and Amaya were teaching our dada and Glory how to work out (yes how to work out because they want to "reduce their stomachs") all in Swahili. Mama Peace said that Amaya and I were her favorite students out of all of them...sorry not sorry (yeah I just said that for the sake of the moment). We shared great laughs, and we made great friends. 

We found this gift from Glory waiting for us one evening

So today we said our farewells and our see ya laters to our new friends in Arusha. Our little host brother even cried as we said goodbye, and we had to reassure him that we are returning again soon. I told him one of my favorite phrases "usiogope," which means "fear not." We have learned lots from these new friends. Too much for me to explain here, but all of us are excited to be able to see them again soon.

As of now, I am reading lots, doing my best not to stress out about school, trying not to get sick (a lot of people in our group have been getting sick), and getting excited to see the hot, white, sandy beaches of Zanzibar. I will be staying alone with a Muslim family that I am so excited to call my own because if they are anything like my family in Arusha, I know that I have a lot of love waiting for me. 

Decision of this post: Be grateful for the relationships you have made and will make in your life because each relationship teaches you one thing or another...

Sending my love from Africa,

Can you see the monkey?

Jax

Big slug!