Wednesday, February 26, 2014

The Zanzibar Experience Continues...

Part 2

Alhani
After Sauti Za Busara, things died down, and everyone left with memories to remember forever.  However, life went on.  For instance, I went with Alex and Michael to the house where our favorite little girl was just turning 2. Her name is Alhani, and she is, of course, your cute, chubby cheeked, button nosed, big brown eyed girl.  For short, she is my shoga.  Shoga, in Swahili, represents the relationship between girls who are good friends. 

Have you ever been this tired?
As we sat watching the many children crowded into one small living room watching TV, we witnessed a little boy who was so tired he was falling asleep sitting up. We watched as the little kids watched music videos that weren’t exactly family friendly, nor were they videos that you would want your kids to be watching. They were music videos about drugs, or sex, and usually had half-naked girls shaking their butts at the camera.  But the parents didn’t think anything of it. In fact, I saw the parents singing along with this Afro-beat type music (i.e. Diamond Platnumz is the big one). It made me think about how the older generation really accepts the modern music, which made me think about how I am used to hearing the older generation in America talk about how “the music isn’t how they made it back in the good ole days.” While this partially may be true coming from a big Oldies fan because of my Dad, rather than complaining or hating it, the people here just embrace the new music.

So the celebration happened something like this…Alhani came in dressed as if she was a bride; all decked out in a white dress with makeup and a white flower pin in her hair. There were many kids watching her, so, of course, she was very shy at first (I am not sure she loved her outfit because it gets better). Her parents, her aunt and uncles, and her Dadas were there. Everyone, even each little kid, came up and greeted me, Michael, and Alex by touching our hand (not exactly shaking it).  So for all you germaphobes, you might need hand sanitizer. The special guests generally get there later, but we were the exception.  They greeted us with sweet juice, and fed us soup with potato and pepper tasting things. 

Alhani disappeared for a little while, but soon she came out wearing an extravagant green and pink fairy outfit. It was obvious she loved this outfit more, because she began to clap her hands and dance to the music playing. They brought a green and pink cake where a Barbie was built into the cake with her arms to say CONGRATS!! They played a whole CD of different versions of the Happy Birthday Song, which was fairly interesting.  

The tradition they have here in Africa on someone’s birthday is that every guest must feed and be fed by the birthday person. I was the third person to be fed cake, which is a big honor to think about because the special guests go close to the beginning after parents and grandparents. The atmosphere was ‘bumpin’ as they would say in America, with everyone being crowded in this small living room, dancing, laughing, and singing. Alhani shared her bright smile with the whole world, and I hope her bright smile is shared with you in her pictures.

My Swahili professor and classmates, Amaya, Rachael & Ruthie.
The whole week after that was spent going to class, learning and practicing more Swahili. We explored a cave where 100 slaves were kept to work on crops, because in 1873 the Sultan was forced to sign the document to abolish slavery (if he didn’t sign, there would be no protection by England…) This cave also had fresh water that was used for drinking, bathing, and irrigating. Keep in mind, this cave is NOT handicap accessible. It isn't like the famous monuments in America where they build fancy ramps and lights to light the pathway. So we climbed back into the cavern (pango) with our headlights and the best sturdy shoes we had, along with these crickets with 2-inch long antennae, bats, millipedes bigger than my hands, spiders the size of my hand, and rocks that are very slippery and treacherous…and muddy. Its okay, only one of us fell, but the outcome was a camera being broken (Kristin). I did my very best to catch her.  It wasn’t very long, but just imagine slaves who are barefoot and weak climbing over sharp rocks with animals that are creepy crawlers.
Cave entrance
Cave exit

Then, we traveled to slave chambers where over 200 slaves were kept chained to walls standing up, with no toilets, with only bread and a glass of water a day. The slave traders would take the slaves and send them out on a secret port to India and the Middle East. It makes you wonder what kind of tension there is between Africans and India. It makes you wonder what sort of tension is between Africans who imprisoned other Africans and used them as slaves.

The next day… something amazing happened.  Rachael and I decided to go explore the beach of Ngazi Mia. Of course asking for directions to the beach ended up being told “It's over there. You know, over there.” Then, they show us where we need to go, and then ask for money. Our guide was very nice and did not ask for money, but he told us to walk and explore everywhere and we gave our thanks. This beach was secluded and SO peaceful. I can’t say it was the prettiest beach I have seen, but because it wasn't swarming with tourists, or people, other than African runners on the beach, it was wonderful. We watched the many fishing boats being cared for, explored the seashells, climbed onto this old cement hangout place to do homework and relax on the beach. 

We always have people who come up and talk to us, but they are usually teenagers who want to practice their English, or teach us Swahili. I read in Eat, Pray, Love that Muslims have an order to their world. Life makes sense when you have a plan. It is against the natural order to not have a plan. It is kind of like you are floating aimlessly into the dark abyss of the universe with no direction. It is the exact same here. Every guy asks me the same three questions in order. Do you have kids? (No) How old are you? (19) Are you married? (No).  Then follow all the average Whys? You quickly learn to say politely “I don’t have kids, YET,” avoid the age question, and lie and say, “Yes, I am married.” 

After that, we swam in not the cleanest ocean water (we witnessed a cow being washed in the ocean near us… No Judgment), and indulged in the little pleasure of letting ourselves be tourists for a few hours.  We even wore our bikinis, which is very scandalous. Teehee.  We got some courage to do 50 jump squats on the beach, which was a great workout while it lasted. It gets better…

The beach filled with more locals by the minute. Even some women were swimming by this point, which is practically unheard of. As we approached our cement hangout place, we saw a ginormous group of people circled and facing toward each other chanting in these rhythmic drill with a slight hint of African songs. It took a minute, but all of a sudden I realized all these people were counting because they were working out. Men, soccer players, boys, and even women in their long gowns and covered heads were here working out. I began to videotape and traveled to the top where I could get a better view. I was so entranced by the fact that the whole Zanzibar community was here doing these aerobics without stopping in the hot Zanzibar sun for a whole hour. 

Click on these links to see videos

                 Swahili Aerobics!                                                 And I got to play too!


The man leading the workout was this man who had a spring in his step and a large smile on his face that was warm and welcoming. He spotted me up in the crowd and yelled up to me to come join… I couldn’t pass that up even if I was in a beach dress and bathing suit. So I worked out with the Zanzibar community, doing aerobics for 45 minutes without stopping, with a huge smile on my face. I could not believe what I was a part of. I was surrounded by the wonderful sound of African voices chanting and yelling Swahili around me, and it gave me the best motivation to enjoy the workout while I could, even if it meant I was sweating an oceanful. I didn’t understand everything they said, but it didn’t matter. The sound of their harmonious voices lifted up everyone’s spirits. Everyone around me shared a smile, a pat on the back, and even a short clip of the workout for proof. A man even gave 100 shillings for all my hard work. All around that day was a day I will remember for the rest of my life because it was something that a person may not dream of doing, but it was an unknown dream come true.

            As of now, food is calling me home, so I will leave you with this: peace can be found in the most unlikely things, so let yourself be caught in the moment.

Love from Africa

Jax


Photo credits to Michael Celone and my traveling companions.  Thanks!




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